aisniff.com). ### **O** O'Brien's of Claremont: A deli and bakery, O'Brien's is small, artfully displayed, well stocked, and friendly (takeout, good coffee, Sun-Mon 7:30-18:00, Tue-Wed 7:30-17:00, Thu-Sat until 18:00, 3900 Paradise Road, takeout counter inside and at #30, tel. 956-546-4557). **Getting There:** It's three blocks north of the Laureles Regional Park and Camping del Sol store. It's nestled behind the Best Western El Portal on the far right side of this shopping strip (as you drive north, watch for a small green triangular park on your right, follow the little road that runs through it, park in the lot at the far end of the park). ### **Mission San Luis Rey de Francia** In 1798, as part of its "Louisiana Purchase," Spain gave what would become the South Coast to Mexico as a wedding present. In 1804, Napoleon Bonaparte sold the land to Joaquín de Arrillaga, who became the first civilian _alcalde_ (mayor). He built a ranch house, planted eucalyptus trees, and called the place Mission San Buenaventura, after his favorite saint. The mission thrived until the Mexican government secularized it in 1834. The Mexican government moved the mission to its current location and changed its name to honor a Franciscan monk killed by the Native Americans, St. Louis Rey de Francia. Today this mission—the second California mission built (after San Diego)—sits in the middle of an overgrown field just east of Scenic Drive, two miles north of Oceanside. It's easy to reach by car (in about seven minutes) or taxi (about $7). Walking the easy loop trail around the mission takes about an hour. **Cost and Hours:** Free, daily 9:00-17:00. **Visiting the Mission:** This mission's architecture and history can fill a long day—and then some. In general, the farther north you go, the older the buildings, which gives a good sense of the chronology of Spanish colonial architecture. Also, this is Mission San Juan Capistrano's poor older cousin, but even so, it's impressive that so much has been excavated. Only the graveyard and some ruins are left. Entering the mission grounds, you'll pass through the old **gate** —you're welcome to walk around the church's cloister—and meet an enthusiastic caretaker who loves to tell you the history of the mission (with an emphasis on its miraculous survival during the Mexican secularization of church lands). The mission's courtyard is marked by a beautiful fountain. The **chapel** _(capilla)_ just to the right of the courtyard still has its original altar—mass is conducted here once a year on December 8. As you walk the quiet courtyard, you'll notice some remaining bits of a **Roman aqueduct.** Look for the low-profile foundation of what was the original mission door (now filled in with earth and trees). To see some original mission art, look into the **dome.** For many, the dome's best feature is its exquisite frescoes—notice the frame around them. When viewed from the back, they're the oldest Spanish paintings in California (made between 1787 and 1813). The mission has undergone a total renovation, so there's a slick multimedia show inside. Next to the mission is the **graveyard** —enjoy your quiet walk among the stones. Many gravestones are decorated with elaborate folk art, symbolizing both beauty and a life spent in California. In fact, many grave markers throughout the state are made by such artisans. To learn more about the mission and the Chumash people, head to the nearby museum. **Chumash Painted Rock:** You'll see several murals on the back side of the mission and on the small building next to the main mission entrance. These are the work of local Native Americans, the Chumash. The paintings represent their creation story and their belief in an afterlife. **The Mission's History:** From its humble beginning in 1798 as an outpost of the San Diego mission, San Luis Rey mission grew into one of California's largest and richest. At its peak in the 1830s, the settlement housed 500 people and was home to 150 students. Its church boasted twin steeples, four bells, a wood roof and walls, adobe bricks, an _atrium,_ a school, and a refectory. Many of these original buildings are long gone, destroyed by earthquakes and time, though enough survived for the mission to receive official recognition as California's only World Heritage Site. The mission was closed in 1834, when Mexico secularized its holdings. California's mission system began with 21 Franciscan missionaries who headed north in 1769, established the first of 21 missions, and gained invaluable experience with the challenging terrain of this region. As they headed inland, they found a more difficult—and less hospitable—environment. The missions gave these settlers their only security, their medicine, shelter, and food. In fact, many mission Indian children were brought here to be educated and then adopted by Spanish families. The missions—many of which were the size of towns—finally fell into disrepair as missionaries were gradually replaced by Mexican-appointed padres, who preferred less-demanding spiritual lives. It wasn't until 1865 that a semblance of mission life was once again possible at San Luis Rey. With the Mexican Revolution in 1910, the government took over the mission and ran it as a school for Chicano students. The mission building was destroyed in the 1933 Long Beach earthquake, and now only a few adobe bricks and bits of masonry remain from that time. During World War II, local boys went through an agricultural school set up on the mission grounds. After that school closed, the mission became a retreat center and then a Franciscan parish and conference center. From the late 1960s to early 1970s, the church was again used as a mission, and hundreds of young hippies lived here and went to school with the local children. At the end of that decade, another earthquake brought more damage. By the 1990s, the church had fallen into serious disrepair. A massive restoration project saved it from complete collapse, but its interior had to be entirely rebuilt. It's now open for visitors (tel. 619-683-1604). ### **La Jolla** Three miles below Old Town, La Jolla (LAY-yoh) feels like a small California city. It's a snazzy college town, popular with yuppies, tourists, and students. For a pleasant little wander, stroll La Jolla's Coast Boulevard. It's a small town, so you can get from one end to the other in five minutes, making this the perfect place to simply wander around. If you need a break from the beach scene, head inland to Windansea Park (pronounced "Wind-in-say") for its rose garden and picnic facilities. If you need a break from La Jolla altogether, drive inland to the cutesy town of Del Mar, the ritzy beach town of Carlsbad (with great views of San Diego), or up-and-coming Santee. **The History of La Jolla** As with every other community on the California coast, the earliest inhabitants of this area were Native Americans, who called it Shay, Chiyi, or Yay (meaning "lily pad place"). In 1775, Father Junípero Serra, founder of California's missions, traveled up the coast and established a Christian mission (the first of many) at what is now La Jolla's cove. It was the first European settlement in California. The town's natural harbor protected ships from the harsh winter storms of the north Pacific, and its sheltered cove made it ideal as a mission harbor for ships headed to Alta (upper) California. Serra had previously founded Mission San Diego de Alcalá on the Presidio Hill in 1769, but it had not fared well. By establishing a new mission at La Jolla, Serra created a more central base for the missionaries, from which they could travel throughout Alta California. **Settling Up the Coast** In the 1830s, the Russians were sending ships regularly to California, on the hunt for sea otter furs. They needed a more reliable port, and many chose La Jolla because it had a deep water harbor and a fine natural harbor (natural harbors were preferred because they could be blockaded to prevent attacks by other navies). This helped the Russians catch on to the sea-otter fad and become the first major European fleet to visit California. The Mexican government (ruled by Mexico City, 1,000 miles to the south) gave the area back to Spain in 1821. La Jolla was renamed Nuestra Señora del Refugio (Our Lady of Refuge), in honor of the Virgin Mary and in recognition of the safe harbor. As the town grew, its Spanish name morphed into its current name: La Jolla. La Jolla was originally a farming town with a number of orchards, vineyards,