bottaw.com; Hwy 331; campsites/cabins from $15/60; ) Set on a peaceful site surrounded by native lilac, this welcoming, solar-powered place has six campsites with picnic tables, a laundry, a small store, a fire pit and a tiny pool. Owner Barbara Rauh runs nature walks and birding trips in the area, has free wi-fi and doles out great advice for exploring the northern half of the island. The cabin-style rooms are a great deal for families and have an en suite bath. The owners also run the nearby, fully licensed Sunspot Motel (mains $8-15; 8am-9pm) , which has wi-fi and a range of accommodation from tidy rooms to more spacious units. ###### Information The Island Times (www.theislandtimes.island.sk.ca) is an up-to-date online news site and has listings of things to do and events around the island. For island events, check the Up-Country Events Guide (www.upcountryevents.com). The island has no commercial airport and no bus service; everything is relayed by ferry. Several shuttle services run to/from nearby Prince Edward Island (PEI) and PEI-bound travelers can use a PEI address to get a driver's licence. #### Sights & Activities In summer, whale-watching cruises leave from the wharf in Hampden from early July to early August. Otherwise, you're best off driving the loop road yourself. Just beyond town on your right is the turnoff to the Hampden Wind Farm (www.hampdenwind.ca) , which offers great views of the surrounding countryside. The wharf serves as a mooring point for the seasonal ferries from North Sydney, Nova Scotia. See Click here for details. ##### WALKS & HIKES Take a deep breath and listen to the silence at the southernmost tip of the island, a tranquil area dotted with whimsical driftwood sculptures, as the gentle, salty air whips around you. This is where you'll find Hampden Head, a craggy peak that rises dramatically out of the sea. It's a good spot to hike or bicycle. Also popular for hiking and cycling is the nearby **Centennial Park** , a well-established, forested area that was cleared of trees after being hit by Hurricane Hazel in 1954. The route leads around the headland to Hampden Head, a fairly easy 5km trip that takes a little over an hour. Take care with the tide: it's important to follow the posted signs and heed any posted warnings. (If you are unable to resist dipping your toes in the water as you cross over the causeway, take heed of the posted sign warning of treacherous undertows.) ##### LIGHTHOUSE The old lighthouse is well worth the few minutes you'll need to linger in the small village of Hampden, at the end of High St. It's perched on a bluff overlooking a bay that was once home to many fish factories and a coal mine. There are great views from the top of the causeway, which looks out over the bay. The lighthouse is actually open for self-guided viewing during the summer; just look for the red light beaming over the water. It's a 15-minute walk from the wharf. ##### FARM STANDS & TOURS In Hampden is a colorful market selling artisanal wares. On many summer afternoons you can enjoy the island's famous seafood over a glass of wine at one of the tables on the pier. The view over the water is breathtaking. Inquire locally about free tours of the fish-packing plant, which is still in operation today. ##### THE NORTH COAST A well-maintained road leads a few kilometres north of Hampden, off the highway on a sealed lane; it's a good way to escape the summer crowds. The narrow road meanders up through low coastal forest and alongside the Humber River. Along the way, the road stops at an intriguing 'Tower House' (www.towerhouse.ca; 9am-4pm daily Jun-Sep) , perched precariously on a bluff near the top of the road, to give a rare view over the treetops to the bay. It's a great place for kids – young and old alike – to climb and hang out. The drive continues another 2km to the end of the road, where a sign on the fence indicates that this is 'Public Lands.' From here, the public can continue a further 6.5km to Whale Watching Park (below), located well off the road. Just past the end of the sealed road, a gravel spur veers to the left and leads past a huge outcrop of black shale. It's an interesting detour, and well worth the short walk. ##### WHALE-WATCHING PARK With dolphins, porpoises, minke whales and humpbacks, the waters off Cape George are one of the most fascinating wildlife-watching spots on the island. Whale Watching Park ( 709-464-3427; www.hampden.nu; Whaling Station Rd; adult/child $12/6; 9am-5:30pm Jul & Aug), 7km south of Hampden, has educational displays on the importance of whales in the ecosystem of the ocean. ##### BIRDING The town's Hampden Driving Range Bird Sanctuary, with 200 hectares of protected land, is a haven for migrating birds. There's no admission fee, but visitors are welcome to explore the sanctuary on a self-guided tour. The Hampden Wind Farm (Click here) also attracts migrating birds, with more than 140 species having been recorded here. ##### HIKING In the hills just beyond the village of Hampden, the **Marine Hiking Trail** follows the coastline on the shoreline and offers great views of the surrounding island scenery. It's best to go with a local guide, who can point out the best whale-watching spots. ##### SKIING At some point or another, if you're visiting in winter, you'll find yourself wishing you were back on a mountain in the French Alps. Because that's exactly where Hampden Peak would be if it hadn't been blown off course by a late-1800s wind storm. (It may have been a one-time event, but the peak – located near the west end of the island – is now the highest point on the island at about 400m above sea level. Unfortunately, due to the height of the peak, it's virtually inaccessible by road and thus not very accessible to hikers. #### Sleeping & Eating **Lovisa's Lodging** ( /fax 709-331-2858; www.lovisascottages.com; r $115-185; ) A real gem in Hampden, Lovisa's four charming wooden cabins are tastefully and comfortably furnished, with kitchens and fireplaces. A highlight of the farm is its sun-drenched gardens and flower beds, and there's a wonderful herb garden, too. Lovisa's is surrounded by apple orchards. There is no indoor bathroom; bathrooms are shared between two rooms or accessed from a shared shower or bath in the barn. Cabins are 2km west of Hampden; follow the signposts to Sunspot Farm. **Sunspot Farm Hostel** ( /fax 709-331-2760; www.sunspotfarm.com; r incl breakfast $59-80; ) There's a family feeling here with this farmhouse-cum-cowboy-shack, which consists of seven guest rooms in a refurbished old farmhouse. With plenty of antiques, quirky decor and a relaxing lounge strewn with books, it's all a bit quirky and cozy. Three rooms have en suite bathrooms, two have private toilets and three share a bathroom, and there's a couple of rooms for families. The on-site vegetarian restaurant and bar are open from mid-May to October. It's about 3km west of Hampden off the road that leads to Lovisa's. **Heritage Chalet** ( 709-331-2177; www.heritagechalet.com; s $90, d $120-160; ) The three cute A-frame cabins with kitchens here are located on a quiet country lane about 1km north of Hampden. The cabins are immaculate and well stocked, and have cable TV and wireless internet access. The cabins share bathrooms. Two of the cabins can sleep up to six, while the other has a double bed and a foldout. Guests are invited to gather round the communal fire pit and enjoy the wildlife-viewing from the deck. #### Getting There & Away Bike A few locals rent bikes in the village and will also pick you up at the ferry. Car & Bicycle From Hwy 1, Hampden is about 45km due east of PEI (it's about 50km southwest of Charlottetown). There's