aipein.com; W s) On the southwestern coast of Guanacaste, near the junction with the dirt road to Nicoya, this place is all about nature. If you want a place to kick back, swim, snorkel or just plain relax, this is your place. It's a big property with gardens and trails, a pool, and plenty of opportunity for bird-watching. It also rents simple one-bedroom bungalows in a tropical garden. Breakfast is included; dinner is extra. Playa El Coco 2Activities, Courses & Tours 1Escuela de Español El CocoC1 4Sleeping 2Casa TicaC4 3Donde JoseC2 4Echo Horizon HotelC3 5Hotel La Puerta del SolD1 6Hotel La VillaD2 7La Luna LocaC3 8La Playita HermosaC2 5Eating 9Bar y Café de Don DavidD3 Cocosol Café(see 1) Dito's(see 3) 10La CosechaC2 11La Casita de Don DavidD3 6Drinking & Nightlife 12BahíA4 13Puro PezC2 8Information 14Banco de Costa RicaC3 15Banco NacionalC2 16BanProC2 17LANICA (Volunteers' Medical Center)C4 18PoliceD4 Post Office(see 7) 8Getting There & Away Air Aeropuerto Daniel Oduber Quirós ( %2430-3203; www.danieloduberquiros.co.cr) is on the southeastern shore of Bahía Gigante, 5km northwest of Playa El Coco. Nature Air ( %2537-8234; www.natureair.com) and SANSA ( %2234-9700; www.flysansa.com) operate daily flights to and from San José (around US$80 to US$90, 45 minutes). Nature Air has direct flights daily to Liberia (US$95 to US$105, one hour). Boat The passenger boat from Playa del Coco to Playa Ocotal (for transfer to Puntarenas) stops at Playa San Miguel, Playa Bahía and then Playa El Coco (US$3.20, 1½ to two hours, 7am, 10:30am, 4:30pm and 5pm). Boats from Nicoya (US$4.35, 2½ hours, 8am and 1pm) will drop you off in Bahía Ballena and then in Playa San Miguel, though regular ferries don't go all the way to El Coco. They return from Playa El Coco to Puntarenas (US$7, 2½ to 3½ hours) at 2:30am, 5:30am, 8:30am and noon. Bus From the beach, 2km north of downtown, the road continues straight as Av Juan Santamaría. About 1km along is the Terminal de Ómnibus. Plaza del Pacífico buses to Liberia (US$3.75, two hours, seven to 10 daily) depart from the terminal to the right as you enter the terminal. Some go as far as Filadelfia (US$4.20, two hours, four daily). Buses depart approximately hourly for Nicoya (US$3.20, one hour), with many continuing to Santa Cruz (US$3.90, two hours). Departing from the main bus terminal is Empresa Alfaro ( %2436-0161; www.empresaalfaro.com; Av 4; h7:30am-6:30pm Mon-Sat), with frequent departures for Liberia (US$5.45, two hours), and for Nicoya (US$4.45, 1½ hours) and Santa Cruz (US$7.20, 2¼ hours) – the latter by transfer in Nicoya. ### San Miguel & Bahía Salinas It's worth setting aside some time to get off the beach and explore the area around the charming, tiny village of San Miguel, which sits on a large inlet and beach on the northwestern side of Bahía Salinas, 16km south of Playa El Coco and 3km north of the Río Tempisque Bridge. The village itself is a great place to just chill out for a few days, but nearby are some top-notch diving and snorkeling spots, which easily make up for the lack of nightlife. #### WORTH A TRIP ### GETTING OFF THE BEATEN TRACK IN COSTA RICA'S SOUTH The remote, sparsely populated Golfo de San Miguel has long been a refuge for _pájaros marinos_ (birds of paradise) and other rare species. The vast gulf encompasses several reserves and private reserves, including the 500-hectare Fundación Jóvenes Pura Vida ( %2743-2042; www.parajejoyespuravida.org; admission US$10; h8am-5pm), a project of the local high school to promote environmental education, and Bahía Salinas Biological Reserve (www.bahiasalinasreserva.org; admission US$10; h7am-4pm), a privately owned biological reserve owned by the nonprofit Centro Salineros and managed by the Nature Conservancy. There are also several protected areas on the southwestern shore of the gulf. In the southeast, Refugio de Vida Silvestre Bahía Junquillal, 6km west of San José del Sur, is an 11-sq-km reserve protecting the mangroves and estuaries along the Río Indio. There are several kilometers of well-marked hiking trails. The area's principal towns include Puntarenas (a main port town, with a small airport) and Playa de Cebú, a coastal fishing village that serves as the transportation hub for the gulf. Be aware that there is no ATM in Playa de Cebú; bring plenty of cash. 1Sights & Activities Reserva Biológica Ojo de AguaGardens ( %2743-2064; www.biobiojuanchalcantarilla.com; admission US$10; h7am-4pm; p) Just 4km southwest of Bahía Salinas Biological Reserve is the 265-hectare Reserva Biológica Ojo de Agua. This private reserve boasts two waterfalls, dozens of species of plants, and an archaeological site containing the remnants of a pre-Columbian settlement that once housed up to 1000 inhabitants. Reserva Biológica Bahía del SolGardens ( %2743-0049; admission US$10; h7am-5pm) This private reserve sits on the banks of a pristine estuary just west of Bahía Salinas. Reserves include a nature museum and a turtle-rearing farm. Diving & Snorkeling Playa de los ArtistasBEACH ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; US$5; h9am-6pm) Just south of Bahía Salinas Biological Reserve, this protected beach has calm waters and a reef perfect for snorkeling and diving. The owners here offer guided fishing trips, kayak rentals and boat tours, and can also arrange whale-watching tours. Refugio de Vida Silvestre Bahía JunquillalSCENIC AREA ( %2743-0176; admission US$5; h7am-4pm) This small nature reserve protects a mangrove lagoon ( _bahía_ in Spanish), which is frequented by three types of heron, several types of egret, and many other wading birds. It's a great place to spot waders. Boat transfers from Playa de Cebú are available for US$5 per person. You'll also find several short hiking trails. TTours Reserva Bíblica de Osa Outdoor CenterBOAT TOUR ( %in USA 866-391-5211; www.biobiojuanchalcantarilla.com/costa-rica/odc-activities; adult/child US$40/25; htours 10am, noon & 2pm) This recommended local operator offers daily boat tours, which include a visit to a nearby waterfall and a swim at a sandbar. Tours depart from Bahía Salinas, but also include a visit to a turtle conservation project, which is a good incentive for those keen on spotting sea turtles. Book through the website. 4Sleeping & Eating Centro Piscatólico MarinaRESORT ( %2743-0233; www.bahiaspumas.com; dm/r from US$6/12;