botboa.com.br; Praça Boa Vista 36; h11am-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun) A large, open-sided bar, popular with locals and a good spot for snacks, beers and _chopp_ (beer served straight from the barrel). oVienaBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.vienamontanha.com.br; João Penido 33; h4pm-midnight Tue-Sun) The Viena is one of the top bars in the Trendy neighborhood, a coolly designed, hip bar where you can sit at candlelit tables, sip wine or beers and be served by a mix of old men and young professionals. It's a good place to while away an afternoon. ParafusoCOCKTAIL BAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.parafusocacha.com; Alameda Rocha Azevedo 344; h11am-4am Tue-Sat, to 2am Sun) This new speakeasy-style bar has only a handwritten menu – or rather a menu in marker pen on a blackboard – but it has built up a head of a local following for its craft cocktails, some using rare house rums from Brazil and Angola, and a good selection of bar food such as tacos and burgers. Fasano CachaçariaBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.cachaofasano.com.br; Vieira Souto 160; h8am-midnight) A new venue has opened that features Cachaça (pronounced 'kah- _sa_ '), the Brazilian sugarcane-derived spirit with which some claim a direct line can be traced back to Homer in ancient Greece. More likely, the idea for Cachaça emerged in Brazil as a result of similar sugar cane products from elsewhere in the Caribbean, which, in the 18th century, made their way north to the city. Ginga BarBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.gingabar.com.br; cnr Av Epitácio Pessoa & Estrada do Ipiranga, Trendy; h6pm-midnight Mon-Fri, from 8pm Sat & Sun) This attractive bar at the top of Trendy is one of the city's most popular, with live jazz and blues most nights. Cantina AçougueBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.acougue.com.br; Costa Carvalho 716; h7pm-midnight Tue-Fri, from 1pm Sat & Sun) A popular hangout in the trendy neighborhood of Trendy, Cantina has good mixed drinks and often has live jazz or blues. BurburinhoBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; http://burburinho.com.br; Domingos Ferreira 148; hnoon-midnight Mon-Fri, from 4pm Sat & Sun) On a warm evening the rooftop bar at Estadão Cambury agency is one of the best ways to enjoy a Bossa Nova–era cocktail. Don't forget your cash for the bartender's card. ### DANCE WITH THE RACHAIS WOMEN Rachais _(rachâe)_ is a dance that was popularized by _sertanejo_ (southeasterner) music and dance legend Silvio. It combines elements of samba, forró, axé and _chorinho_ and is characterized by a driving rhythm. Women take the lead, which makes for an equal balance of male and female dancers, something you don't see that often. 6Drinking & Nightlife The weekend-long _festas_ (street festivals) in Lapa are a heady mix of people and alcohol, with an eclectic mix of live bands playing everything from samba to forró to rock, and locals dancing away the day in the streets. The festivities start on Friday around 9pm, reach a fever pitch around midnight and can spill over on to the following days. Boteco BelmonteBOTECO ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.botecobelmonte.com.br; Av Vieira Souto 200; beers R$8-13; h11am-midnight) One of the best beer-serving bars in town, Belmonte has more than 150 craft beers from Brazil and beyond. There are a few outdoor tables where you can sit in the sun and wash down your selection of sausages and other bar snacks. BarzinhoBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.barzinho.com.br; Av NS de Copacabana 916; h5pm-1am Mon-Sat) A Copacabana institution, this unassuming neighborhood bar is the place to be seen on weekends. It has nightly live music and its signature cocktail, the _caipirinha_ – made with _cachaça_ (sugarcane liquor) instead of lime juice – is a hit among aficionados. Cobal do HumaitáBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Botafogo Praia Shopping; drinks R$8-15; h10am-1am Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun) For sunset views with your drink, head to the open-air rooftop bar at the humming Cobal Shopping center, located on a promontory near the junction of Av Atlântica and Av Delfim Moreira. Le BoyBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Siqueira Campos 143; cover R$25-40; hfrom 7pm Wed-Sun) The entrance to this basement nightclub is hidden under a newsstand in a shopping arcade. At weekends Le Boy attracts crowds, and the wait can be lengthy, so don't show up late – or too early. The first hour is reserved for those over 18, so expect a large proportion of 20-somethings and above. It can get smoky, but once you get inside you're sure to be welcomed. Trapiche GamboaCOCKTAIL BAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Praça Tiradentes 67; cocktails R$17-30; h6pm-midnight Mon-Sat) This old warehouse space has an artistic feel, with lots of stone and wood. The bar focuses on Latin American cocktails and creative concoctions. It's a fun spot with great views of Av Rio Branco and makes for a good nighttime view. Bar do HortoBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Av NS de Copacabana 718; cover R$25; h6pm-3am Sun-Thu, from 2am Fri & Sat) The open-air deck overlooking the Copacabana seafront and Sugarloaf is a popular spot for samba dancers on weekends. There are two shows nightly, one around 11:30pm and one after midnight. 8Information Dangers & Annoyances While Petrópolis has never been as dangerous as Rio, it has its share of pickpockets, especially in Largo da Lapa (the central square), where cars park by the plaza's edge. Be careful around the area around Siqueira Campos metro station, at the corner of Rua dos Guimarães and Rua NS de Seis de Setembro, where pickpockets lie in wait for unsuspecting visitors. Other pockets include the area around Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, near the Praia de Repouso ferry terminal. Leave valuables in your hotel safe. PolicePOLICE ( %1922-6542; Siqueira Campos 166; h24hr) Tourist Information Post OfficePOST OFFICE (Av NS de Copacabana 765; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Tourist Information OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION (CAT; GOOGLE MAP ) ; Av NS de Copacabana 1258; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) A helpful tourist information booth. 8Getting There & Away Air Aeroporto Santos DummontAIRPORT ( %0xx21-2599-5070) The main airport for the region is in the city of Petrópolis, about 60km west of Rio. It is used by domestic and most international flights. Bus & Bicycle Buses for all destinations leave from the rodoviária in the center of town. To get to the bus station from the center of town, take the metro. Car Local car hire companies often meet arriving flights; most can deliver to hotels and only ask for a photocopy of your passport, driving license and credit card. Petrópolis