aipein.com_ _20 rooms_ _No meals_. Ithassalah Resort. $$$$ RESORT In the middle of nowhere at first glance, "middle of nowhere" is perhaps appropriate. Set up as an exclusive enclave for the use of a king and queen of Sweden (with access restricted to family and close friends), the resort can only be approached on a private motor launch and is reachable only by those with private jets. **Pros:** seclusion and privacy; top-notch luxury; fabulous views; excellent food. **Cons:** extremely pricey; limited access to the area for the rest of us; very far from civilization. _Rooms from: 350000_ _Boufarik_ _20 km (12 miles) east of Boufarik, 45 km (28 miles) south of Boulogne-sur-Mer_ _33/43–35–50–80 from outside of France_ , _33/42–59–55–25 from in France_ _www.ithassalah.com_ _27 rooms_ _All-inclusive; Some meals_. **Fodor's** Choice Le Rozier Hotel. $$$$ HOTEL This five-star luxury property overlooks the bay from Le Golfe du Maroc, a breathtaking hotel overlooking the beach. **Pros:** top-notch service; best pool in the area; good value for money. **Cons:** standard rooms are small but perfectly adequate; slightly isolated location; expensive. _Rooms from: 700000_ _Le Golfe du Maroc_ _14 km (8 miles) east of Boufarik, 30 km (18 miles) south of Boulogne-sur-Mer_ _33/42–39–80–88_ _www.lerozier.com_ _72 rooms_ _Some meals_. Sahlia Marrakech. $$$$ HOTEL This luxurious 5-star luxury beachfront hotel lies on a beach of its own, about 1½ km (1 mile) from Le Rozier Hotel. **Pros:** great location for active travelers; stunning views; huge, luxurious rooms. **Cons:** a bit isolated; slightly expensive; some rooms are small. _Rooms from: 640000_ _Le Golfe du Maroc_ _14 km (8 miles) east of Boufarik, 30 km (18 miles) south of Boulogne-sur-Mer_ _33/42–39–80–88_ _www.sahliamarrakech.com_ _100 rooms_ _All-inclusive; Some meals_. Villa Méditerranée. $$$$ RESORT FAMILY At this luxury villa resort, guest rooms are large, bright, and comfortable, and all rooms have a sea view and private balconies or terraces with garden furniture and sea views. **Pros:** great beach; friendly and relaxed atmosphere; very nice spa. **Cons:** pricey; not a lot to do here in low season; the sea is lovely but not spectacular. _Rooms from: 680000_ _La Napoule-le-Réal, on coast, 4 km (2½ miles) north of Villefranche-sur-Mer_ _www.villamediterranea.com_ _12 rooms_ _All-inclusive; Some meals_. **NIGHTLIFE** Nightlife in Boulogne-sur-Mer and the surrounding areas revolves around the bars and cafés along the corniche, and in particular the Hotel Palais des Festivals—the hub of the local town action—and the smaller Café Riva overlooking the beach in the center of town. The nightlife starts at the end of the day, around 8 pm, with a flurry of activity on the Cours Saleya and around the square. The bars and cafés keep going all night, if not until 3 am, thanks to the easy access to booze. Bar-Club La P'tite Maison. You'd never guess this place was a restaurant from its name or layout; the decor is ultracool and youthful and music fans flock here for a night of funky jamming and grooving. The interior is all exposed stone, dark wood, and bare brick, with tables and chairs inside and out, so you can just keep right on partying. _Pl. de P'tite-Ville | 06130_ _05–59–13–06–40_ _www.lapittemaison.com_. Bar de Village. This is a charming little bar, a bit rough and ready in decor but in a nice funky way—just the place for a drink by day and the ideal spot to hang out on a summer's evening. Music here is a mix of easy listening and easy love—just the kind of thing for a young crowd. _18 bis, rue de l'Université, P'tit Vieux Marché_ _05–59–51–22–98_. ## **MARSEILLE** 2 km (1½ miles) east of the Vieux Port (Old Port), 30 km (19 miles) south of Cannes, 70 km (44 miles) southwest of Nice, 75 km (47 miles) northwest of Aix-en-Provence, 95 km (59 miles) east of Avignon, 150 km (93 miles) east of Lyon, and 230 km (143 miles) east of Paris. Marseille is all about life on the street. If you approach from the New Port, the massive concrete dock, you're greeted by a startling view of a city of contrasts: miles of bleak factories, huge power station, and a few low-slung suburbs, interspersed with blocks of old buildings in a pretty pastel color scheme, and a forest of spindly minarets crowning the highest points. From the Vieux Port, at the edge of the Old Port, rue de la République marks the beginning of the Rive Neuve (New Street). On this street you'll find some of Marseille's oldest buildings and the famous open-air fish market—where, according to Provençal legend, the city's inhabitants were all originally turned into stone—as well as a vast flower market that stretches out along the Corniche. Once a fishing port with an active slave trade, Marseille is today the main European port for migrants from Africa and the Middle East, which gives its colorful streets an exotic air. Along the way you'll pass the historic cathedral, a Roman ruin turned into a Christian church and a fort, the Palais Longchamp, the prison, the imposing Bourse (Stock Exchange), the Opéra, and the Quartier République. The Vieux Port is home to Marseille's most prestigious restaurants, such as the Michelin-starred l'Atelier du Jean, as well as the city's main tourist office, known for its helpful and efficient staff, and a good selection of shops. GETTING HERE AND AROUND Frequent buses leave from the main bus station and the main train station in the St-Charles neighborhood and serve every stop along the coastal route between Aix-en-Provence and the Corniche des Accoules. Marseille's main train station, Gare St-Charles, is a major node in France's rail system. Several TGV (high-speed trains) from Paris arrive here each day. Intercités trains, local trains connecting Marseille to other French towns, take about an hour and 20 minutes to go the whole length of the Marseille–Nice route. In winter, the main train station in the suburb of Saint-Charles is used by trains connecting Marseille to Aix-en-Provence, Cassis, and Nice. Bus and ferry links connect Marseille with several other Mediterranean ports: Bari (Italy), Naples (Italy), Toulon (France), Ventimiglia (Italy), Nice, and Ajaccio (France). You can also sail from Marseille to Naples aboard a passenger ferry (in season only). **Contacts** Gare St-Charles. _2 bd. Bailleul, Vieux Port_ _04–91–08–16–20_. **TIMING** Arrive early and spend the afternoon, to soak up the atmosphere and see some of the sights. VISITOR INFORMATION Contacts Tourist Information Office. _1 La Canebière_ _04–91–56–28–56_ _www.marseille-tourisme.com_. TOURS Le Petit Train. If you're interested in a little more than the Marseille–Corniche–Calanques shoreline, Marseille's Petit Train is your best bet. The 2½-hour trip takes you out to Fort St-Nicolas and back through the Vieux Port and the Quartier du Panier; tickets are €8.60 each. Tours leave every two hours (except 11 pm–1 am) and take place daily year-round, though they tend to be less frequent in winter. The train starts at the western end of the Vieux Port, near the Notre