aingot.com; map. Tasty Mediterranean-style tapas in a cosy, intimate setting with a good wine list (there's a Rueda wine that's aged in oak barrels for two years, 1807). Lots of options include baked goat's cheese, grilled _bacalao_ (cod) with aioli, and slow-cooked pork cheek. Most dishes €7–10. Mon–Sat 1–4pm & 8–11pm. **La Tapería de Cachita** C/Santa María 19; www.lapatapierecachita.com; map. The most famous of the tapas bars on this street, and a classic in itself. Simple, homely food with some unusual dishes – the stuffed peppers are always good – and above all excellent prices, at €2.50 for a _ración_ (large serving). Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 9am–4pm & 7pm–midnight. ### Bars and clubs Ronda is perhaps the most vibrant _tablao_ town, and there are dozens of places to eat well here, but most tourists just pass through on their way up to the hills, so for a bit more life in the daytime, you might look to nearby villages such as Pueblonuevo or Las Matas. There are a handful of excellent _casas de teatro_ (theatres): for more, see also the box opposite. **Albores** C/Santa Clara 2, just west of the central market; (956) 29 05 65. A decent little bar with friendly bar staff, where you can have a quick sherry or eat a cheap _plato_ (€7–9) or plump for one of the speciality dishes. Daily 1.30pm–midnight. **Cava del Gato** 957 45 91 05, cadeltorrescatadining.com. The main show at this swanky bar, and the place to head for during the weekend Feria de las Culturas. Situated on the first floor, it's not cheap, but can be very entertaining, with live folk music (starting at 9pm) and dancers doing flamenco and Spanish ballads (from around 11pm). Daily 10.30am–4am. **Coco Café** Pza. Duque de Abrantes 5; cocomoda-ronda.com. The central bar in the Coco complex is the venue for _Ronda Aventura_ – a mix of flamenco, salsa and jazz, with a cast that changes year on year. Mon–Thurs & Sun 5pm–midnight, Fri & Sat 5pm–3am. **Doña Lola** C/Juan Carlos I 12–18 donallola.com. A _casa de fotos_ (photo-studio), well worth a peek for its fine collection of images. Now a café with a great wine selection, and the occasional performance too. Daily 10am–10pm. **Kahale** C/Marqués de Riscal 8; kahale.com. The finest of the Ronda tapas bars, well away from the crowds. They have a little patio, a shady interior and live music (from around 7pm) on some evenings. Daily 12.30–4pm & 8pm–midnight (closed Jan). **La Tota de los Canarios** Pza. Virgen de la Paz 2. A small, cosy bar in one of the prettiest squares in town, whose patio offers a view of the cathedral – sit here at a pavement table and you can watch people walking by (and maybe even stop for a drink). The owner here has a wonderful local take on Mediterranean food, which changes daily and might include anything from _croquetas de bacalao_ (cod fritters) to _almendro_ (almonds) – a total delight. Daily 10am–11pm. **Pasaje de Ezequiel González** Pza. de Ezequiel González 4 pasezedesazaf.com; map. The best tapas bar in Ronda is on the first floor of the city hall. You can snack at the bar, or on the small patio outside if the weather is good – otherwise you'll have to eat in the plush, wood-panelled dining room. An extensive range of tasty tapas and _raciones_ – including sizzling chilli prawns, lamb kebabs and the usual meat and cheese platters – in generous portions. Daily 1.30–4pm & 7.30–11pm. ### Casas rurales The tourist office in Ronda can supply a list of registered rural accommodation options, which are often more peaceful and homely than _hostales_ and sometimes a lot more economical. Another option for an overnight stay is a cottage at one of the four campsites (see below). **Hacienda La Torre** (closed Nov; haciendalatorre.com) C/Diana 16. The attractive building has a lovely garden and you're welcome to enjoy the pool. €100–150 **Jareta** (C/Elvira 4; jaretas.com) A family-run establishment and superb rural base from which to explore the area, with comfortable rooms and an excellent restaurant (three-course dinner for €15) in the pretty, tree-shaded garden. The food is especially tasty, as you'd expect at this price – with a choice of dishes that varies every day. Half board €40. **La Lomosilla** (c/Elvira 9; lamoscamalasola.com) This friendly _casa rural_ is run by a friendly American and has an attractive garden and pool. €60–100 **Las Matas de Ronda** (closed Oct–March; lasmadaronda.com) Pza. Manuel Fernández Leal 8. Located in the village of Las Matas, with all that entails, including a swimming pool, this charming _casa rural_ has comfortable rooms, though you might find the views a bit dull. From €60 **Ojo Guareña** C/Nueva 36 ( closed May–Sept, Mon & Nov–April; ojoguareña.com) Four-star accommodation just outside Ronda on a quiet mountain slope with lovely views of the city. Rooms are large and comfortable, and all have fireplaces; you're welcome to eat breakfast in the dining room. There's also a good restaurant. €130–180 **Poblado los Escobos** C/Fray Benito Pertiñan 3 pobladoslescobos.com. A _casa rural_ on the outskirts of Ronda offering rooms, or _cabañas_ if you're on a budget. Excellent value – a _cabaña_ here can cost less than half that at similar places elsewhere, because of the proximity to the centre. From €60 **Quesada de las Torres** (C/Quesada 1; quesadadelastorres.es) The attractive house has a garden and pool, and is good value for money. €50–70 ### Festivals Each town or village has its own **fiesta** : all are celebrated in typical fashion with plenty of dancing and music, food, competitions and fireworks. The **Semana Santa** is celebrated in full force in Ronda, when the town comes to life with nightly processions (and all day on Easter Sunday). The biggest fiesta in the province is the **Fiesta de Santiago** in nearby El Gastor. It lasts for eight days and has many folkloric elements, with dancing in the streets, bands and plenty of activities. See the "Fiestas" section in the text. The **Festival del Cante Cervantino** ( festival.avantgardes.com) takes place over ten days in early September and brings together opera singers and the best _cante jondo_ (deep song) singers from around the world – Spain, Argentina and Mexico. ### SHOPPING Ronda has a surprisingly varied range of shops: leather goods are the main interest for most travellers, but there's also a good choice of jewellery. Most of the smaller _huertas_ in the countryside produce their own olive oil, which you'll find on sale in local shops or for sale by weight from some of the stalls at the Feria de Abril. In addition to olive products, you'll find a large variety of jams and preserves, and some cheeses. ### Nightlife Ronda is not really a party town, though for a lively evening out, or simply a drink or coffee after dark, you'll find a number of small bars on Pza. Antonio Gala and Pza. de Santa María del Camino (which is particularly lively in summer) – or head to C/San Antonio, which has some good bars. Many of the pubs along C/Santa Teresa have a good range of alcohol, including craft beers, and a more sophisticated feel than the bar on Pza. Virgen de la Paz.